Boa Nova to Serra Bonita, Brasil - 28 Oct 2023

Day 10: After birding for a few hours near Boa Nova, we’ll begin our long drive toward the Serra Bonita Private Reserve. Located near the city of Camacan, the reserve was created by a consortium of owners to protect 2500 hectares of Brazilian Atlantic Forest. The reserve is perched on the top of steep mountains, and we’ll need 4x4 trucks to get there. We’ll stay at the Serra Bonita Lodge, run by the famous entomologist Vitor O. Becker and his charming wife, Clemira Souza. It will be wonderful spending two full days here, not only enjoying the unbroken forest and its birds but also meeting that wonderful couple. People interested in moths will be in moth heaven and may even have a chance to visit his impressive collection of 400,000+ specimens, including several thousand yet undescribed species. After our long journey we’ll probably be happy to relax and enjoy a drink in front of the bird feeders, which usually attract Red-necked and Green-headed Tanagers, Spot-billed Toucan, Sombre Hummingbird, and even the very local Wied’s Black-tufted-ear Marmoset. Night at Serra Bonita. - WINGS Birding Tours

RPPN SERRA BONITA, Camacan 

+ 55 73 99945.8879 www.serrabonita.org                                                Has internet but no laundry service.

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Usual drill. Breakfast at 5 am and out the door at 5:30 am. With cloudy skies and. 65F we drove past the pond that has produced some nice birds the past couple of days. This morning it was no different.

A pair of Blackish Rails appeared in the grassy hammocks next to the pond. 

We were able to re-find a Yellow-browed Tyrant, 

a Masked Water Tyrant, 

and a pair of Orange-headed Tanagers. The tanagers were highlight birds as they are widespread but rarely seen. I was happy that I’d forgotten to change the camera back from ISO 25,800 as it was still low light at 5:45 am.

On the way to Boa Nova National Park we stopped again when Rich heard a Striped Cuckoo calling. We jumped out and played the call and I managed to grab a flight shot as it flew by. It never materialized well enough for photos, but we got to hear its sweet call.

Boa Nova--área geral, Bahia, BR

Oct 28, 2023 5:36 AM - 5:57 AM

Protocol: Stationary

Checklist Comments:     Pond on main highway a west end of town

30 species

Rock Pigeon (Feral Pigeon) (Columba livia (Feral Pigeon))  5

Striped Cuckoo (Tapera naevia)  1

Blackish Rail (Pardirallus nigricans)  2

Western Cattle Egret (Bubulcus ibis)  3

Crested Caracara (Caracara plancus)  2

Great Antshrike (Taraba major)  1

Silvery-cheeked Antshrike (Sakesphoroides cristatus)  1

Rufous Hornero (Furnarius rufus)  1

Caatinga Cacholote (Pseudoseisura cristata)  2

Yellow-chinned Spinetail (Certhiaxis cinnamomeus)  2

Common Tody-Flycatcher (Todirostrum cinereum)  1

Southern Beardless-Tyrannulet (Camptostoma obsoletum)  1

White-crested Tyrannulet (Serpophaga subcristata)  1

Yellow-browed Tyrant (Satrapa icterophrys)  2

Cattle Tyrant (Machetornis rixosa)  1

Social Flycatcher (Myiozetetes similis)  1

Brown-chested Martin (Progne tapera)  1

Blue-and-white Swallow (Pygochelidon cyanoleuca)  2

Tropical Gnatcatcher (Polioptila plumbea)  1

Chalk-browed Mockingbird (Mimus saturninus)  1

Creamy-bellied Thrush (Turdus amaurochalinus)  1

House Sparrow (Passer domesticus)  3

Campo Troupial (Icterus jamacaii)  1

Cinnamon Tanager (Schistochlamys ruficapillus)  1

Orange-headed Tanager (Thlypopsis sordida)  2

Saffron Finch (Sicalis flaveola)  5

Grassland Yellow-Finch (Sicalis luteola)  1

Blue-black Grassquit (Volatinia jacarina)  1

White-throated Seedeater (Sporophila albogularis)  1

Bananaquit (Coereba flaveola)  2

View this checklist online at https://ebird.org/checklist/S153301509

This report was generated automatically by eBird v3 (https://ebird.org/home)

Once inside the BNNP we stopped by another cattle ranch pond and looked around. A Pale Baywing was sitting on a Cactus Cacholote nest while Rich found another nest w/ a cacholote in it.

A Black-bellied Antwren was chattering away at us from 5 ft away in the thickets in front of us, but would not show well enough to photograph. A pair of Caatinga Barred Antshrikes were slightly more cooperative when they appeared across the road.

A Pileated Finch was showing its fiery-red crown on the fence ahead of us, but I was too slow w/ the camera.

The morning, however, belonged to the Mouse-colored Tyrannulets! Rich played his mobbing recording and we had no less than 8 of the tiny tyrannulets flocking around us. The moved fast, and were backlit most of the time.

We were also visited by a Fuscous Flycatcher that was similar in appearance but has warmer tones, buffier wing-bars, and a narrow supercillium that extends behind the eye.

Southern Mouse-colored Tyrannulets are slightly less warm in tone and have whiter wing-bars and a supercillium that is broader over the eye. (Thanks to Rich for the ID / corrections!).

We drove on and stopped abruptly when Rich spotted a Gray-headed Kite flying overhead. It then perched, but flew off before I was even able to get out of the van. I did get a few flight shots when it reappeared circling overhead.

Continuing on we stopped and tried to find a Gray-headed Spinetail, but none would respond to the playback. Instead, the mobbing sound brought another flock of Mouse-colored Tyrannulets (7 this time).

We drove back to the hotel to grab our suitcases and by 8 am were on our way to the Serra Bonita Lodge.

Boa Nova--Estrada da Torre, Bahia, BR

Oct 28, 2023 6:05 AM - 7:22 AM

Protocol: Traveling

1.609 kilometer(s)

56 species

Picazuro Pigeon (Patagioenas picazuro)  4

Ruddy Ground Dove (Columbina talpacoti)  8

Picui Ground Dove (Columbina picui)  15

Glittering-bellied Emerald (Chlorostilbon lucidus)  1

Swallow-tailed Hummingbird (Eupetomena macroura)  1

Black Vulture (Coragyps atratus)  8

Turkey Vulture (Cathartes aura)  1

Gray-headed Kite (Leptodon cayanensis)  1

Roadside Hawk (Rupornis magnirostris)  1

Cobalt-rumped Parrotlet (Forpus xanthopterygius)  1

Cactus Parakeet (Eupsittula cactorum)  4

Golden-capped Parakeet (Aratinga auricapillus)  10

Great Antshrike (Taraba major)  2

Silvery-cheeked Antshrike (Sakesphoroides cristatus)  5

Caatinga Antwren (Radinopsyche sellowi)  1

Barred Antshrike (Caatinga) (Thamnophilus doliatus capistratus)  2

Stripe-backed Antbird (Myrmorchilus strigilatus)  3

Narrow-billed Antwren (Formicivora iheringi)  1

Black-bellied Antwren (Formicivora melanogaster)  2

Rufous Hornero (Furnarius rufus)  2

Rufous-fronted Thornbird (Phacellodomus rufifrons)  2

Caatinga Cacholote (Pseudoseisura cristata)  6

Sooty-fronted Spinetail (Synallaxis frontalis)  2

Pearly-vented Tody-Tyrant (Hemitriccus margaritaceiventer)  1

Common Tody-Flycatcher (Todirostrum cinereum)  2

Southern Mouse-colored Tyrannulet (Nesotriccus murinus)  16

Large Elaenia (Elaenia spectabilis)  2

Planalto Tyrannulet (Phyllomyias fasciatus)  1

Fulvous-crowned Scrub-Tyrant (Euscarthmus meloryphus)  3

Bran-colored Flycatcher (Myiophobus fasciatus)  1

Fuscous Flycatcher (Cnemotriccus fuscatus)  1

White Monjita (Xolmis irupero)  2

Masked Water-Tyrant (Fluvicola nengeta)  1

Brown-crested Flycatcher (Myiarchus tyrannulus)  3

Great Kiskadee (Pitangus sulphuratus)  2

Variegated Flycatcher (Empidonomus varius)  1

Tropical Kingbird (Tyrannus melancholicus)  2

Rufous-browed Peppershrike (Cyclarhis gujanensis)  1

Gray-eyed Greenlet (Hylophilus amaurocephalus)  2

Southern Rough-winged Swallow (Stelgidopteryx ruficollis)  2

Tropical Gnatcatcher (Polioptila plumbea)  1

House Wren (Troglodytes aedon)  2

Creamy-bellied Thrush (Turdus amaurochalinus)  2

Rufous-collared Sparrow (Zonotrichia capensis)  8

Shiny Cowbird (Molothrus bonariensis)  10

Pale Baywing (Agelaioides fringillarius)  6

Chestnut-capped Blackbird (Chrysomus ruficapillus)  2

Flavescent Warbler (Myiothlypis flaveola)  1

Red-cowled Cardinal (Paroaria dominicana)  3

White-lined Tanager (Tachyphonus rufus)  3

Sayaca Tanager (Thraupis sayaca)  2

Burnished-buff Tanager (Stilpnia cayana)  2

Saffron Finch (Sicalis flaveola)  15

Blue-black Grassquit (Volatinia jacarina)  3

White-throated Seedeater (Sporophila albogularis)  1

Pileated Finch (Coryphospingus pileatus)  10

View this checklist online at https://ebird.org/checklist/S153301508

This report was generated automatically by eBird v3 (https://ebird.org/home)

I attempted to nap a bit, but was jarred awake when the van abruptly stopped. Rich had spotted a Zone-tailed Hawk among a group of Black Vultures, and I was able to see it soar right over the van. These birds look just like Turkey Vultures in flight, but closer looks reveal a black-and-white striped tail and a hawk-like head w/ bright yellow cere. Nice find!

I’d manage a flight shot of a Giant Cowbird flying across our view from a pond down below the roadside, but was horribly backlit. A Green Kingfisher and White-headed Marsh Tyrant were the highlights of the short stop.

BR030, Dário Meira BR-BA -14.43009, -39.97639, Bahia, BR

Oct 28, 2023 8:41 AM - 8:50 AM

Protocol: Stationary

14 species

Greater Yellowlegs (Tringa melanoleuca)  1

Striated Heron (Butorides striata)  1

Black Vulture (Coragyps atratus)  10

Turkey Vulture (Cathartes aura)  2

Zone-tailed Hawk (Buteo albonotatus)  1

Green Kingfisher (Chloroceryle americana)  1

Crested Caracara (Caracara plancus)  1

American Kestrel (Falco sparverius)  1

Golden-capped Parakeet (Aratinga auricapillus)  4

White-headed Marsh Tyrant (Arundinicola leucocephala)  1

Boat-billed Flycatcher (Megarynchus pitangua)  1

Tropical Kingbird (Tyrannus melancholicus)  2

Giant Cowbird (Molothrus oryzivorus)  1

Chopi Blackbird (Gnorimopsar chopi)  2

View this checklist online at https://ebird.org/checklist/S153301507

This report was generated automatically by eBird v3 (https://ebird.org/home)

Rich got a text from the hotel owner mentioning that someone left something behind. Without Wifi he couldn’t open the image, so we stopped at a gas station to use their signal. Turns out someone dropped their underwear and socks from their laundry bag on the way out and did we want to drive an hour back to pick them up? The owner said no...

We slowed at another pond to look for Masked Duck (for Jim). Scanning the vegetation we found some Brazilian Teal, several Purple Gallinules, 

and a Pinnated Bittern! These birds are supposed to be a 1000 miles away, but apparently we just found a stray. I was able to get photo documentation in case it was needed for eBird (it was not).

A pair of Blackish Rails appeared, and were followed by two juveniles who looked very cute.

A Striated Heron was also a nice find.

Marsh S of Itagibá, Bahia, BR

Oct 28, 2023 9:35 AM - 9:50 AM

Protocol: Stationary

17 species

Brazilian Teal (Amazonetta brasiliensis)  6

Pied-billed Grebe (Podilymbus podiceps)  2

Picui Ground Dove (Columbina picui)  2

Blackish Rail (Pardirallus nigricans)  4

Common Gallinule (Gallinula galeata)  3

Purple Gallinule (Porphyrio martinica)  2

Southern Lapwing (Vanellus chilensis)  1

Wattled Jacana (Jacana jacana)  2

Solitary Sandpiper (Tringa solitaria)  1

Pinnated Bittern (Botaurus pinnatus)  1

Striated Heron (Butorides striata)  2

Black Vulture (Coragyps atratus)  6

Lesser Yellow-headed Vulture (Cathartes burrovianus)  3

Golden-capped Parakeet (Aratinga auricapillus)  1

Yellow-chinned Spinetail (Certhiaxis cinnamomeus)  2

White-headed Marsh Tyrant (Arundinicola leucocephala)  2

White-winged Swallow (Tachycineta albiventer)  2

View this checklist online at https://ebird.org/checklist/S153301506

This report was generated automatically by eBird v3 (https://ebird.org/home)

At just before 11 we pulled off onto a side road to look for a Pink-legged Graveteiro, a tiny bird that likes to hang out in large bromeliads high in the treetops. The trees were dense and the road was shaded in parts, and it looked like a lovely place to put a home.

But, Mark spotted a Swallow-winged Puffbird in a tree across a large pasture, 

while overhead we spotted an Orange-bellied Euphonia. A Streaked Flycatcher was overhead, as well.

As we scanned the treetops for noisy parakeets three or four Streaked Flycatchers began squealing and acting all up in someone’s business. A Least Pygmy Owl had responded to Rich’s tooting whistle. As we scanned a large tree w/ bromeilads and a Jack Fruit the owl was flushed into the open. We were able to get it in the scope and camera! Pretty little owl. 

Then a Streaked Flycatcher knocked the little guy off his perch and he flew away.

With no responses from the Graveteiro we got back on the road.

Maraú--Piabanha, Bahia, BR

Oct 28, 2023 11:12 AM - 11:22 AM

Protocol: Stationary

9 species

Violet-capped Woodnymph (Thalurania glaucopis)  1

Least Pygmy-Owl (Glaucidium minutissimum)  1

Swallow-winged Puffbird (Chelidoptera tenebrosa)  2

Streaked Flycatcher (Myiodynastes maculatus)  2

Thrush-like Wren (Campylorhynchus turdinus)  2     Heard

Orange-bellied Euphonia (Euphonia xanthogaster)  3

Green-headed Tanager (Tangara seledon)  2

Red-legged Honeycreeper (Cyanerpes cyaneus)  1

Bananaquit (Coereba flaveola)  1

View this checklist online at https://ebird.org/checklist/S153301505

This report was generated automatically by eBird v3 (https://ebird.org/home)

After a lunch stop we had an hour's drive to the base camp of Serra Bonita. Just as we turned on the dirt road to the camp we spotted a flock of Golden-capped Parakeets in a dead snag. Lighting was poor but the birds still showed some nice color.

45880-000, Camacan BR-BA -15.42177, -39.52890, Bahia, BR

Oct 28, 2023 3:05 PM

Protocol: Incidental

2 species

Golden-capped Parakeet (Aratinga auricapillus)  32

Yellow-rumped Cacique (Cacicus cela)  2

View this checklist online at https://ebird.org/checklist/S153301504

This report was generated automatically by eBird v3 (https://ebird.org/home)

We have to say tchau to Paulo for the duration of our stay. Since the van will not make it up to the Lodge he will stay in the base camp (Fazenda) for some much needed/deserved relaxation. The rest of us piled our suitcases and gear into Toyota 4x4 trucks and headed up the cobblestone hill. 3 kilometers of bumpy, steep, 1-lane road. The van would not have made it…

My ironic vision of the day was seeing a very large, mean- and tough-looking woman holding a butcher knife while peeling fruit, then sitting down and burying the knife in the bench next her. She was wearing a Harry Potter "Gryfindore House" t-shirt. :)

Fazenda Santo Antonio, Bahia, BR

Oct 28, 2023 3:15 PM - 3:26 PM

Protocol: Stationary

13 species

Gray-rumped Swift (Chaetura cinereiventris)  8

Sick's Swift (Chaetura meridionalis)  1

Swallow-tailed Hummingbird (Eupetomena macroura)  1

Yellow-bellied Elaenia (Elaenia flavogaster)  1

Gray-breasted Martin (Progne chalybea)  6

Yellow-rumped Cacique (Cacicus cela)  3

Shiny Cowbird (Molothrus bonariensis)  1

Red-cowled Cardinal (Paroaria dominicana)  1

Sayaca Tanager (Thraupis sayaca)  2

Palm Tanager (Thraupis palmarum)  2

Green-headed Tanager (Tangara seledon)  6

Red-legged Honeycreeper (Cyanerpes cyaneus)  2

Bananaquit (Coereba flaveola)  2

View this checklist online at https://ebird.org/checklist/S153301503

This report was generated automatically by eBird v3 (https://ebird.org/home)

We arrived and were given room numbers (I got Room #1). The second truck arrived a short while later and we headed out for a quick birding trip around the lodge.

Atop the mountain here the view out our balconies is gorgeous, 

and the views of the valley are stunning. It was partly cloudy and humid up here, and birds were initially quiet. 

But, overhead I saw a bird fly in and Rich ID’d it as a Sharpbill. It didn’t stay long and not everyone saw it. Jim is on this trip to see THIS bird so I felt bad that he missed it. But, we have 2 days to find another.

Heliconias are in bloom around here so we are to keep our eyes peeled for hermit hummingbirds. We did see a Violet-capped Woodnymph and got stunning looks at a White-chinned Sapphire just a couple feet away.

Meanwhile a bare-leafed tree out over the valley held a plethora of Green-headed Tanagers, Red-necked Tanagers, Green Honeycreepers, Orange-bellied Euphonias, and Golden-chevroned Tanagers. We should see more of these birds closer tomorrow.

A White-throated Woodcreeper flew in and I managed a few pics of this extremely rare bird.

All the while we kept hearing a Variable Antpitta singing in the deep woods to our right. So we walked to the edge of our cabins and tried to call it in. It came close enough to hear just behind a tree, but it refused to show. 

Skies were getting dark and we started hearing Short-tailed Nighthawks calling nearby so we abandoned the antpitta for viewing 3 - 4 Short-tailed Nighthawks flying right over our building.

RPPN Serra Bonita (acesso restrito), Bahia, BR

Oct 28, 2023 4:15 PM - 5:56 PM

Protocol: Traveling

0.161 kilometer(s)

36 species

Ruddy Quail-Dove (Geotrygon montana)  1

Short-tailed Nighthawk (Lurocalis semitorquatus)  3     Known location

Black Jacobin (Florisuga fusca)  1

Sombre Hummingbird (Eupetomena cirrochloris)  1

White-chinned Sapphire (Chlorestes cyanus)  1

Crested Caracara (Caracara plancus)  1

Maroon-bellied Parakeet (Pyrrhura frontalis)  2

Rufous Gnateater (Conopophaga lineata)  1     Heard

Variegated Antpitta (Grallaria varia)  1     Heard

White-throated Woodcreeper (Xiphocolaptes albicollis)  2     1 seen, a second heard very distant

Lesser Woodcreeper (Xiphorhynchus fuscus)  2

Pale-browed Treehunter (Cichlocolaptes leucophrus)  1     Heard

White-eyed Foliage-gleaner (Automolus leucophthalmus)  1     Heard

Pallid Spinetail (Cranioleuca pallida)  1

Sharpbill (Oxyruncus cristatus)  1

White-throated Spadebill (Platyrinchus mystaceus)  1

Drab-breasted Pygmy-Tyrant (Hemitriccus diops)  1

Southern Tropical Pewee (Contopus cinereus)  1

Fuscous Flycatcher (Cnemotriccus fuscatus)  1

Boat-billed Flycatcher (Megarynchus pitangua)  2

Blue-and-white Swallow (Pygochelidon cyanoleuca)  2

Rufous-brown Solitaire (Cichlopsis leucogenys)  3

White-necked Thrush (Turdus albicollis)  1     Heard

Rufous-bellied Thrush (Turdus rufiventris)  1

Blue-naped Chlorophonia (Chlorophonia cyanea)  3

Violaceous Euphonia (Euphonia violacea)  4

Flame-crested Tanager (Loriotus cristatus)  1

Sayaca Tanager (Thraupis sayaca)  2

Golden-chevroned Tanager (Thraupis ornata)  2

Palm Tanager (Thraupis palmarum)  1

Green-headed Tanager (Tangara seledon)  10

Red-necked Tanager (Tangara cyanocephala)  5

Blue Dacnis (Dacnis cayana)  2

Green Honeycreeper (Chlorophanes spiza)  1

Rufous-headed Tanager (Hemithraupis ruficapilla)  3

Bananaquit (Coereba flaveola)  2

View this checklist online at https://ebird.org/checklist/S153301502

This report was generated automatically by eBird v3 (https://ebird.org/home)

The restaurant is down the cobbled path a 1/4 mile away at the owner’s residence, so we agreed to meet at 6:15 to walk together in the dark. I walked out of my room 10 minutes early and decided to make a screech owl call. This got a reply in the form of a Common Pauraque calling very nearby. On the roof. I was able to shine my flashlight on it and get a few pics in the dark before it flew off.

RPPN Serra Bonita (acesso restrito), Bahia, BR

Oct 28, 2023 6:05 PM - 6:10 PM

Protocol: Traveling

0.1 kilometer(s)

Checklist Comments:     Waiting for group

1 species (+1 other taxa)

Common Pauraque (Nyctidromus albicollis)  1

nightjar sp. (Caprimulgidae sp.)  1

View this checklist online at https://ebird.org/checklist/S153301814

Rich spent a few minutes pointing out some of the neat insects that come out after dark, including large Coffee Crickets, Wandering Spiders, a huge Millipede, and a Rhinocerus Beetle. 

We’d end the day with 130+ species, which is excellent given that it was a driving day. Oops, make that 131+; Rich and Mark had a Black-capped Screech Owl out back of the lodge while mothing (the giant Black Witches are gorgeous).

Tomorrow we will bird the area all day and see what we can find!