Lencois to Mucuge, Brasil - 24 Oct 2023

Day 6: We’ll spend the morning in the dry forest near Lençois, looking for Pale-bellied Tyrant-Manakin, the recently split Ochre-backed Woodpecker, Black-capped Antwren, and the superb White-naped Jay among others. In the background of the songs and calls of more common birds we’ll probably hear the marvelous song of the Yellow-legged TinamouIn the afternoon we’ll travel to the charming village of Mucugê. Just before arriving at our destination, we’ll bird open cerrado habitat, where we hope to see Rufous-winged Antshrike, Wedge-tailed Grass-finch, and possibly even the uncommon Stripe-tailed Yellow-Finch. Night in Mucugê. - WINGS

POUSADA MUCUGE, Rua Doutor Rodrigues Lima, 30 Mucuge                    + 55 75 3338.2210  www.pousadamucuge.com.br

Has internet but no laundry service.


I was awake at 3 am even though the alarm wouldn’t go off until 4:30 am. Though I tried to go back to sleep I decided I’d rather get up and work on yesterday’s summary. I finished it just as the alarm went off, which was good because I needed to pack the suitcase for the afternoon drive to Mucuge.

With everything in place I headed down to the lobby to wait for a 5:15 am breakfast. While sitting in the lobby I was serenaded by Rufous-bellied Thrushes and Cactus Cacholotes. To my surprise a giant Sururu Toad hopped through the lobby followed by a stray cat. Too cute!

After a light coffee stop we loaded into the van and Paulo drove us back to last night’s destination: Remanso Road. However, the morning brought misty skies and a light drizzle / rain that would stay with us until after breakfast. 

As we walked the dirt road the first bird heard was Pale-vented Pigeon, the same bird heard last night. Incidentally, according to the latest update on eBird this bird marks my 1000th Life Bird. Kind of anticlimactic since I would’ve preferred a Yellow-legged Tinamou (999) or Ruby-Topaz Hummingbird (1001).

Moments later a Golden-crowned Warbler sang loudly nearby. We would eventually see another, and I’d get some nice pics despite the low light and slow camera speeds.  

The Ruby-Topaz Hummingbird appeared shortly after and all I could get was a photo of a severely backlit tiny hummingbird. 

A Rufous-tailed Jacamar popped out from the bank in front of us and flew into a tree where it gave great looks and nice photos despite (again) the rain falling and dark skies. As we looked at the sandy bank lining the road we could see possible nesting cavities. 

We would also have poor looks at a White-winged Becard, and be visited by a tiny, tiny, Reddish Hermit. Even at ISO 6400 I was only shooting 1/10 second so there'd be no keepers... :(

I'd have slightly better luck with a Pearly-vented Tody-Tyrant and a Guira Tanager

A Crested Becard then appeared atop the trees and was difficult to pick out from a flock of Blue Dacnis that flew in. A Variegated Flycatcher made for a more cooperative subject.

A Yellow Tyrannulet flew in with the flock and was difficult to photograph. Sepia-capped Flycatcher and Mouse-colored Tyrannulets would also offer only brief glimpses. Overhead a flock of Biscutate Swifts streamed by the dozen until they began to kettle in the distance.

A female Frilled Coquette flew in and landed high in a tree. With action then slowing down we headed back to the Conta Das Agua for a 7 am breakfast before heading back out.

Lençóis--Estrada para Comunidade Remanso, Bahia, BR
Oct 24, 2023 5:30 AM - 6:55 AM
Protocol: Traveling
2.565 kilometer(s)
35 species

Yellow-legged Tinamou (Crypturellus noctivagus)  3     Heard
Pale-vented Pigeon (Patagioenas cayennensis)  1     Heard
Biscutate Swift (Streptoprocne biscutata)  200
Reddish Hermit (Phaethornis ruber)  1
Ruby-topaz Hummingbird (Chrysolampis mosquitus)  3
Frilled Coquette (Lophornis magnificus)  1
Glittering-bellied Emerald (Chlorostilbon lucidus)  3
Glittering-throated Emerald (Chionomesa fimbriata)  4
Surucua Trogon (Trogon surrucura)  1     Heard
Rufous-tailed Jacamar (Galbula ruficauda)  2
Planalto Slaty-Antshrike (Thamnophilus pelzelni)  4
Black-capped Antwren (Herpsilochmus atricapillus)  1     Heard
Olivaceous Woodcreeper (Sittasomus griseicapillus)  1
Streaked Xenops (Xenops rutilans)  1
White-winged Becard (Pachyramphus polychopterus)  1
Crested Becard (Pachyramphus validus)  2
Sepia-capped Flycatcher (Leptopogon amaurocephalus)  4
Pearly-vented Tody-Tyrant (Hemitriccus margaritaceiventer)  2
Ochre-lored Flatbill (Tolmomyias flaviventris)  2
Yellow Tyrannulet (Capsiempis flaveola)  1
Gray-headed Elaenia (Myiopagis caniceps)  2
Greenish Elaenia (Myiopagis viridicata)  1
Streaked Flycatcher (Myiodynastes maculatus)  2
Variegated Flycatcher (Empidonomus varius)  1
White-naped Jay (Cyanocorax cyanopogon)  2
Southern Rough-winged Swallow (Stelgidopteryx ruficollis)  2
House Wren (Troglodytes aedon)  1
Pale-breasted Thrush (Turdus leucomelas)  2
Tropical Parula (Setophaga pitiayumi)  2
Golden-crowned Warbler (Basileuterus culicivorus)  5
Flavescent Warbler (Myiothlypis flaveola)  1
Blue Dacnis (Dacnis cayana)  8
Guira Tanager (Hemithraupis guira)  6
Chestnut-vented Conebill (Conirostrum speciosum)  4
Bananaquit (Coereba flaveola)  2

View this checklist online at https://ebird.org/checklist/S153006821

This report was generated automatically by eBird v3 (https://ebird.org/home)

Breakfast came and went, but as we ate I noticed a Rufous-bellied Thrush eating fruit out of a bowl at the railing overlooking the courtyard. The restaurant was feeding the birds! 

I would see a pair of Sayaca Tanagers come in as well, and after breakfast walked over to the rail just in time to see a pair of Guira Cuckoos chasing a Great Kiskadee away from their perch. A closer look at the cuckoos would also reveal a Pale-bellied Thrush.

Lençóis--Hotel Canto das Águas, Bahia, BR
Oct 24, 2023 7:15 AM
Protocol: Incidental
5 species

Guira Cuckoo (Guira guira)  2
Great Kiskadee (Pitangus sulphuratus)  2
Pale-breasted Thrush (Turdus leucomelas)  1
Rufous-bellied Thrush (Turdus rufiventris)  2
Sayaca Tanager (Thraupis sayaca)  2

View this checklist online at https://ebird.org/checklist/S153006820

This report was generated automatically by eBird v3 (https://ebird.org/home)

Our destination after breakfast was the Trail to Palmeiras where we hoped to find an endemic Sincora Antwren. As with yesterday we ran into stopped traffic as road crews were paving the highway. Rich had us jump out of the van and bird the road while we waited. The surprise of the day was seeing a Planalto Hermit (a large hummingbird) fly in and check out a cartoon flower on the side of the tanker truck in front of us. I was too slow w/ the camera. Someone had thrown seed on the road so we had looks at a flock of Red-cowled Cardinals, Blue-black Grassquits, Shiny Cowbirds, and Sayaca Tanagers. 

Once traffic resumed we drove past the construction zone, then made a sharp left down a steep embankment to a gravel parking lot next to the highway. The trail was active with singing birds that included White-throated Seedeater (below), White-bellied Seedeaters and Yellow-bellied Seedeaters. A Southern Yellowthroat called loudly, and we eventually got to see it (the bird looks like our Common Yellowthroat but the mask is grayer and less defined like our birds). 

I went off to feed the butterflies, and when I returned the group had found a Moustached Wren that called loudly from the brush in front of us, but could not see it. My bird of the day would come in the form of a Rufous-winged Antshrike that flew in and posed in the morning light.

Several Russet-crowned Crakes were calling in all directions around us, but we couldn’t coax any to show themselves. I would have to settle for seeing a (suspected) juvenile White-lined Tanager

a Plain-crested Elaenia

White-bellied Seedeater

and a female Yellow-bellied Seedeater.

A pair of Spix’s Spinetails proved to be difficult to photograph, but a pair of Purple-throated Euphonias were building a next in a moss-covered tree next to an abandoned park house.

I’d be lucky enough to photograph a Bran-colored Flycatcher, a Plain-crested Elaenia, and a Small-headed Elaenia that has a very large body and a tiny little head.

We dipped on the Sincora Antwren, so we walked back to the car. The Chapada Diamantina plateaus were stunning in the morning skies, and really showcased the beauty of Brazil. 

As we walked back a single Fork-tailed Palm Swift could be seen flying overhead. We would also see a Variegated Flycatcher before heading to the Morro Do Pai Inacio (a steep rocky trail to the top of one of the plateaus) in search of a Hooded Visorbearer (a beautiful little hummingbird that inhabits the rocky altitude).

Chapada Diamantina--Trilha Palmeiras-Lençóis, Bahia, BR
Oct 24, 2023 8:15 AM - 10:20 AM
Protocol: Traveling
2.414 kilometer(s)
Checklist Comments:     Including some birds at roadworks traffic stop
48 species

Small-billed Tinamou (Crypturellus parvirostris)  1     Heard
East Brazilian Chachalaca (Ortalis araucuan)  1     Heard
Scaled Dove (Columbina squammata)  3
Striped Cuckoo (Tapera naevia)  1     Heard
Biscutate Swift (Streptoprocne biscutata)  60
Fork-tailed Palm Swift (Tachornis squamata)  1
Planalto Hermit (Phaethornis pretrei)  1
Glittering-bellied Emerald (Chlorostilbon lucidus)  1
Russet-crowned Crake (Rufirallus viridis)  4
Roadside Hawk (Rupornis magnirostris)  1
Great Antshrike (Taraba major)  1
Rufous-winged Antshrike (Thamnophilus torquatus)  3
Collared Crescentchest (Melanopareia torquata)  1     Heard
Spix's Spinetail (Synallaxis spixi)  2
Ochre-lored Flatbill (Tolmomyias flaviventris)  1
Plain-crested Elaenia (Elaenia cristata)  3
Small-headed Elaenia (Elaenia sordida)  1
Yellow-bellied Elaenia (Elaenia flavogaster)  2
Planalto Tyrannulet (Phyllomyias fasciatus)  1
Fulvous-crowned Scrub-Tyrant (Euscarthmus meloryphus)  3
Bran-colored Flycatcher (Myiophobus fasciatus)  1
Great Kiskadee (Pitangus sulphuratus)  2
Social Flycatcher (Myiozetetes similis)  1
Tropical Kingbird (Tyrannus melancholicus)  1
Rufous-browed Peppershrike (Cyclarhis gujanensis)  1
Southern Rough-winged Swallow (Stelgidopteryx ruficollis)  2
Blue-and-white Swallow (Pygochelidon cyanoleuca)  1
House Wren (Troglodytes aedon)  2
Moustached Wren (Pheugopedius genibarbis)  4
Creamy-bellied Thrush (Turdus amaurochalinus)  1
Purple-throated Euphonia (Euphonia chlorotica)  2
Rufous-collared Sparrow (Zonotrichia capensis)  2
Shiny Cowbird (Molothrus bonariensis)  4
Southern Yellowthroat (Geothlypis velata)  1
Golden-crowned Warbler (Basileuterus culicivorus)  1
Flavescent Warbler (Myiothlypis flaveola)  1
Ultramarine Grosbeak (Cyanoloxia brissonii)  1
Red-cowled Cardinal (Paroaria dominicana)  4
Cinnamon Tanager (Schistochlamys ruficapillus)  1
Sayaca Tanager (Thraupis sayaca)  2
Palm Tanager (Thraupis palmarum)  1
Burnished-buff Tanager (Stilpnia cayana)  2
Blue-black Grassquit (Volatinia jacarina)  15
White-throated Seedeater (Sporophila albogularis)  1

White-bellied Seedeater (Sporophila leucoptera)  1
Yellow-bellied Seedeater (Sporophila nigricollis)  3
Bananaquit (Coereba flaveola)  2
Green-winged Saltator (Saltator similis)  2

View this checklist online at https://ebird.org/checklist/S153006819

This report was generated automatically by eBird v3 (https://ebird.org/home)

The climb was steep and exhausting. As it was we only had time to go part way up, but we went far enough to get great views of the valley below.

Bonus birds came in the form of a Pale-throated Pampa-Finch 

and a pair of Hepatic Tanagers. 

Just before leaving the area we'd see Passion Flower growing on the side of the hill, and a a pair of Chopi Blackbirds.

Chapada Diamantina--Morro do Pai Inacio, Bahia, BR
Oct 24, 2023 10:29 AM - 11:22 AM
Protocol: Traveling
1.711 kilometer(s)
5 species

Blue-and-white Swallow (Pygochelidon cyanoleuca)  3
House Wren (Troglodytes aedon)  2
Chopi Blackbird (Gnorimopsar chopi)  8
Hepatic Tanager (Piranga flava)  2
Pale-throated Pampa-Finch (Embernagra longicauda)  2

View this checklist online at https://ebird.org/checklist/S153060184

This report was generated automatically by eBird v3 (https://ebird.org/home)

We’d drive back to Lencois, grab our luggage, check out of the hotel, and drive to town for a quick lunch. Before saying goodbye to Lencois we’d see a Masked Water Tyrant below the bridge overlooking the (now mostly dry) rocky waterfall that flows through town.

The afternoon was then spent driving another 2 ½ hours to the town of Mucuge, our next stop on the trip.

After checking in we went for a short drive and hike in the scrublands surrounding the town with the hopes of seeing a Sincora Antwren, Hooded Visorbearer, or a Diamantina Tapaculo; we’d dip on all but see some other interesting sights, including Roadside Hawk

a juvenile Crested Cara Cara,

unidentified Metalmark butterfly and dragonfly,

and a bright Moon.

Perhaps the best bird of the afternoon was a Gray-eyed Greenlet that offered nice views from the side of the road. 

Tomorrow we will bird the area around Mucuge most of the day.

Chapada Diamantina National Park, Mucugê BR-BA -12.98960, -41.34859, Bahia, BR
Oct 24, 2023 4:24 PM - 5:34 PM
Protocol: Traveling
0.644 kilometer(s)
15 species (+1 other taxa)

Biscutate Swift (Streptoprocne biscutata)  27
Glittering-bellied Emerald (Chlorostilbon lucidus)  1
Swallow-tailed Hummingbird (Eupetomena macroura)  1
Lesser Yellow-headed Vulture (Cathartes burrovianus)  1
new world vulture sp. (Cathartidae sp.)  1
Roadside Hawk (Rupornis magnirostris)  2
Yellow-headed Caracara (Daptrius chimachima)  2
Cactus Parakeet (Eupsittula cactorum)  2
Sooty-fronted Spinetail (Synallaxis frontalis)  2
Bran-colored Flycatcher (Myiophobus fasciatus)  2
Tropical Kingbird (Tyrannus melancholicus)  1
Gray-eyed Greenlet (Hylophilus amaurocephalus)  1
Southern Rough-winged Swallow (Stelgidopteryx ruficollis)  2
Tropical Gnatcatcher (Polioptila plumbea)  2
Long-billed Wren (Cantorchilus longirostris)  2
Blue-black Grassquit (Volatinia jacarina)  2

View this checklist online at https://ebird.org/checklist/S153006817

This report was generated automatically by eBird v3 (https://ebird.org/home)


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